3/2004
Writing on the walls

Editorial
News and Media
MEHRAK GOLESTANDirty Kuffar. Islamist rappers meet cyber-censorship
ALEXANDER REYNOLDS
Terror in Thailand. Bangkok tries to get to grips with an Islamic insurgency
ANIA DABROWSKA
Freedom is a big word. A celebration in pictures of South Africa's 10th anniversary
MARCEL BERLINS
Libel tourism. Welcome to London, libel capital of the world!
MICHAEL GRIFFIN
True today, false tomorrow. A writer finds a libel writ on the breakfast table - and his book gets pulped
TABITHA MORGAN
Aphrodite's other island. Cyprus stays divided as Greeks vote their Turkish neighbours out of the EU
Opinion
JAMES THACKARAA man more sinned against than sinning . . . The release of Mordechai Vanunu provokes a discussion of our nuclear future
Writing on the walls
FELIPÉ FERNANDEZ-ARMESTOThis story doth a wall present. The very long history of walls & Omid Salehi's photos of same in Tehran
KAMILA SHAMSIE
High on walls. A lesson in irony from Pakistan
RUBÉN MARTÍNEZ
Fortress America. How the Great Wall of America brings death in its wake
GLENN PATTERSON
A strange kind of peace. Belfast wins a 'Keep Britain Tidy Award' - with photos by Namiko Kitaura.
IRENA MARYNIAK
Think Roma, say Jew. The ghettoes remain and discrimination becomes 'official' in Europe
MARTIN ROWSON
Stripsearch.
STEPHANIE LE BARS and MARION VAN RENTERGHEN
Walking the wall. Israelis say it's a security fence, Palestinians call it the wall of apartheid
WENDY PULLAN
A one-sided wall. An old solution for a very modern problem
RAJA SHEHADEH
A drive on a forbidden road. The trials and tribulations of getting home after a night out
EYAD EL SARRAJ
Crossings. Playing the waiting game in Gaza
AVRAHAM YEHOSHUA
Why the Zionists were right Lament for the death of optimism
FLASHPOINT
A matter of conscienceMEET THE NEIGHBOURS
UMBERTO ECOMay the force be with you. A strong case for a united Europe.
MARTIN PLUHACEK-REINER
Czech Republic: Always the bridesmaid. The eventful history of Brno
JAAN KAPLINSKI
Estonia: A home named Tammiku. A tale of deportations and conquest on the road to today
LÁSZLÓ KRASZNAHORKAI
Hungary: City of phantom gentlemen. The ghosts that walk the streets of Gyula
NORA IKSTENA
Latvia: Looking for the Livs. On the track of a vanishing people
MARIUS IVASKEVICIUS
Lithuania: The howling wolf. Matchmakers and malls in Vilnius
ANDRZEJ STASIUK
Poland: Vanishing point. The multiple exits and entrances of a Polish escapologist
VALERIU NICOLAE
Roma: Exclusion within. 'It has to be better; we've known the worst'
DUSAN DUSEK
Slovakia: Home of the heavenly hairdresser. The Pope, the hairdresser and a good bowl of soup
KATARINA MARINCIC
Slovenia: Window on Ljubljana. Lives that hide behind windows
MICHAEL FOLEY
Bulgaria: Waiting in the wings. And next time it's the Balkans . . .
CULTURE
EDWARD LUCIE-SMITHLoot! Who owns the Arch of Titus?
BABEL WENDY PEARLMAN
Palestine: Voices under occupation
DIARY LEDIO CAKAJ and MARIA BURNETT-GAUDIANI
August in Albania
LETTER
ESTHER MOIRZimbabwe: Absolute scarcity of everything









